Feet
It will be a very small print with the cube modelled here standing at 3mm tall - Lizard feet are not big. Their front feet are slightly smaller than the back so a smaller iteration of this will need to be made. After discussing the design with my tutor he suggested that making the 3D printed pegs that fit in the hinge holes taller so they can be melted flat on top of the hinge, holding it in place. Puppet So Far...Body: I planned on making the shell for the body entirely 3D printed but I want to experiment with the thermoplastic Worbla (in the same brown tones). The white thermoplastic pictured here is a polymorph plastic moulded to my hand in the correct position for puppeteering - I want to use this in the areas that need very close fitting to my exact finger shape on the inside of the lizard body. This is a great material for this purpose as it can be heated up with hot water and reformed when experimenting with shapes. More images below of how that fits to my hand: (The part at the top of my fingers would be the lizards ribcage area, the tail would come from under my hand etc.) Tail: The tail is finished completely apart from needing to be attached to the body.
Legs: The feet are in the process of CAD designing and will need to be printed in the brown flexible TPU filament. The legs also need their hip and shoulder hinged simply printed in the black TPU filament. The finger attachments on the back legs are going to be made with small back elastics attached with M3 screws into tapped holes in the brass leg pipe. Finally, assembly needed. Head: Lower jaw needs a new digital model more simple than my last design so the hinges pictured can be simply attached and wire can be run through into pull it open. This area will be heavily connected to the neck frill and mechanism here. Neck: The neck will be made from a spring and the space inside will be used to run the wire for the frill mechanism. I want to coat it in the Worbla to match the body hopefully if it will move. If not a simple 3D printed flexible tube will cover the spring. Wrist Mechanism: Here will be how the head is supported - pictured above are some welding rods i can use to cover the distance between my wrist to the head. Not pictured is the small crocodile clip I have to clip into the back of the puppet head for easy removability. Also, the soft material need to attach it to my wrist - perhaps 3D printed but most likely Worbla can be used as it is popular in the Cosplay community for moulding parts to be warn such as this. Motion Capture Markers: Reflective tape pictured above is perfect for attaching to small printed balls that will be placed advantageously over the completed puppet.
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June 2021
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